OX9 Installation Issue: H9 Basescrews Removal

[Keoki]

Preamble: I’ve been reading the stompbox forum for about two hours now  in sheer wonderment. Recently leveraged two H9 Max’s from a Std and a Core (Thank you Brian Meader @ The Guitar Sanctuary) using the Max Out program (Thank you Eventide!) I feel so humbled (and fortunate!) to have the cornucopia of possibilities spread before me, both in terms of effects and accumulated collective knowledge here (e.g  apalazzolo Re: Pitchfuzz in Fave/Least Algorithm. Awesome) So it is with no small amount of embarrassment I make my first post over something so mundane. 

 

Part of my purchases was an Ox9 switch set. It’s installation appeared so simple. After upgrading the H9s and installing H9 Control on all my Apple devices (Mac Pro, iPad Pro, IPhone 10XS (13 Pro coming) I dove into doing that “Oh so Simple” appearing Ox9 switch attachment. Not so simple, I swear to God, the base screws in both H9s seem to have been installed using a tire shop pneumatic impact driver. Simple #1 Phillips torque did nothing, a bit firmer torque, ditto…then as close to Herculean torque as I dared and feeling the beginning of screw head strip I threw in the towel. I can only assume that 1) I’m an idiot who can’t use a #1 Phillips, 2) the Pneumatic Impact Driver Theory may have some merit or 3) the base plate screws are installed with some form of thread locker…oh man the idea of Red Loctite gives me nightmares…So I sucked it up and decided I’d pose the question here:

Has anyone else experienced this issue and how was it resolved such that the Ox9 was installed as intended. I’m reluctant, nay, I abhor the idea of DualLock, Epoxy, TIG/MIG, or similar alternatives. 

 

God I am so embarrassed,

Keoki

[nickrose]

The screws are not fitted with any thread locker, but they are done tightly so that they do not come loose.

There are two types of cross-head screws – try a "Posi-Drive" screwdriver, rather than a "Philips".

 

[Keoki]

nickrose wrote:

The screws are not fitted with any thread locker, but they are done tightly so that they do not come loose.

There are two types of cross-head screws – try a “Posi-Drive” screwdriver, rather than a “Philips”.

Thanks Nick, for approving the post and confirming the need for a different, more “grippy” screwdriver choice than a straight #1 Phillips. I really could not believe that any of the aforementioned possibilities that were running through my stroke recovered  brain were reality, but I did briefly eyeball my MIG welder. A Posi-Driver it is. 

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