Recommended Cables for ADAT

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    • #105398

      I've been through two different sets of ADAT cables now and I'm getting noise glitches from each.  One set was particularly bad, noise noise noise,  another set I would get a pop on all 8 channels on the H8000FW every few minutes or so.

      I'm using a RME Hammerfall DSP card with the Multiface I/O box. I had a Digipatch optical and spdif patcher between the two that I thought may be the trouble, but even when I directly connect the H8000 to the hammerfall, I get the same issue. I've tried using the RME as the clock source via ADAT and wordclock, and I've tried making the H8000 the clock source via adat. Same problem.

      I'm willing to conced that two sets of brand new cables could be at fault at this point. I've found that the cable connection to the H8000 is loose at best. They never seem to lock in very tightly. So I want to ask what is a good recommended, tested brand to use with the H8000FW so I can rule any cabling out of the picture and start to troubleshoot the timing and/or ADAT connections themselves?

    • #117044

      Hi Filch

      you may want to describe all settings (routing/clock) used on the H8000FW to check if they are correct. ADAT cables are standard so there isn't a specific one that we advice. The only problem you may have is that the ADAT ports on the H8000 are quite close so if an ADAT cable has a bulky connector it may touch the other one (I/O ports) and get into the way. This can create a bad connection to the ADAT light beam.


    • #117087

       The manual talks about wordclock BNC termination.Currently I have no termination when trying to use the BNC wordclock cable as the timing source from the RME Multiface to the Eventide. Could the lack of termination be a reason why I get this anomoly when using ADAT? 

       I currently have a 75ohm cable. Am I correct in my understanding in the manual that I should use a 50ohm terminator at the end of the chain, in this case, the h8000fw?

    • #128152

       Hi Filch

      using W.C. for digital sync:

      the H8000FW wordclock
      input is NOT terminated.
      If the H8000FW wordclock input is the
      LAST unit on a cable it must be
      terminated. This would be done by use of
      an external terminator,
      usually connected via a BNC T-piece, as
      described in the latest User
      Manual (V5.2).

      The use of 50 Ohm terminator is recommended.

       We are aware of some folks using the BigBen with 75 Ohm generator and 75 Ohm cables…and 75 Ohm terminator.

      Please try with 50 Ohm first, as described in the User Manual.


      > If the
      customer is using a 75 ohm generator and 75 ohm cables, he
      > should use a
      75 ohm terminator.

    • #128412

      "I've found that the cable connection to the H8000 is loose at best. They never seem to lock in very tightly. " 

      I, too, have found the adat connectors on the H8000fw to be quite problematic with 4 or 5 different brands of adat cable and that it is this loose connection rather than any wordclock issues that cause audio sync problems. 

      I would like to repeat the question of recommending an Adat cable brand. I have approximately 10 devices that use Adat and the H8k is the least secure.

      My current DIY fix is adhesive putty! 



    • #128413


      the only limitation we are aware of is the space between the ADAT I/O connections. Being a bit tight, you may want to look for cable that have a small connector vs. those with a big plastic/rubber mass. I have one here that works perfectly but unfortunately has no brand/model on it.


    • #128418

       If I recall, the HOSA ones are very tiny. I may have to find a pair and try them out.  I'm still having random pops and crackles when running audio via ADAT through the H8000FW.


    • #128419

      Hi Filch

      ADAT digital cables work or don't. You don't get clicks if they don't work.

      As already requested you should be so kind to provide all routing/clock/used presets details so that we can rule out possible other problems or incorrect configurations.


    • #128420

       I realize this. I didn't mean to imply such, although when using one cable versus another I had a difference in the how often those pops/glitches occurred. Not sure what that means, but I just started a 6 day work week, so I'll give all the settings next week. I'd really like to fix this.

    • #128421

      I also noticed that my H8000FW
      ADAT optical cables were loose in the
      Tried both HOSA ?Premium?
      and Acoustic Research cables?
      problems with signal quality, but had
      to secure the cables with plastic clips
      near the H8000FW. (I am connecting the
      H8000FW to MOTU 828MK3 via ADAT).

      Final solution:  Monster  ?THX? brand
      cables. Nice snug fit in the H8000FW, but
      had to file down the plastic shell on one
      cable due to the shell thickness  and close proximity
      of the ADAT connectors.


    • #128423


      The Hosa/Livewire OPT-100 series (Standard) latches solidly into my H8000FW (OPT-102, OPT-103, OPT-106, etc.). However, most other cables will NOT latch solidly – – in fact, the Hosa/Livewire OPM-300 series (Premium) does not come close to latching because the metal headshells around the ends of those cables prevent them from reaching inside my H8000FW back panel where my optical jacks are recessed.

      The problem I am describing here is not the H8000FW optical in/out jacks being too close together. The problem is that TOSLINK/ADAT cables are designed assuming the back panel plastic jacks pass out through the back panel so the jack ends flush with the outside of the back panel (or protrudes slightly). But on my H8000FW (upgraded from Orville to H8000A to H8000FW), the optical jacks are set back inside the back panel by two steps: One step is the steel sheet of the 17? wide back panel, the other step is the steel sheet of the OPTIONS panel that includes the ADAT jacks. Consequently, almost all TOSLINK/ADAT cables I have tried or seen in catalogs online will hit one of the steel sheets before they can reach far enough inside the back panel and latch into the plastic jack.

      I?m glad synthtrumpet posted success with Monster THX because I might like to use one cable with a thicker jacket than the Hosa/Livewire OPT-100 series. From what I see online, the Monster Standard THX headshell ends with a plastic circular cone tapered toward the polygonal plug, so it looks close to fitting into my recessed jack, maybe with some light filing or carving of the conical shape to clear my back panel. However, the Monster Ultra Series THX looks like it will not fit without significantly more filing or carving of the headshell.

      One point I learned here is all the optical cables I have seen agree on the polygonal configuration of their plugs and latches, and the H8000FW jacks have the standard configuration inside to latch onto all the polygonal plugs. My problem is my H8000FW jacks being recessed from the back panel, so most cable headshells hit the back panel before getting the proper depth of plug penetration into the jacks. To make a long story short, the Hosa/Livewire OPT-100 series always latches solidly in my H8000FW (OPT-102, OPT-103, OPT-106, etc.). I am confident they will work for everybody.


      Having said that about optical cables, if you hear clicks or pops on otherwise continuous audio, that problem is most likely confusion about routing/clocking, not cables or jacks. I say ?routing/clocking? in that order because the H8000FW routing presently loaded determines details of the clocking behavior, as I describe below.

      To debug a problem, you want to experiment with states you can reproduce. For Flich, I recommend the following steps in this order: 1) Clear your setup (using the SETUP [service] page, or by powering up with the SETUP key depressed). 2) Load a factory routing that involves only ADAT as digital input, like ?12 ADAT A-B? (using the PROGRAM/ROUTING key). 3) Set clock Source to ADAT (on the first clock page of the SETUP area).

      Now, after steps 1-3 in order, if your RME is the ADAT clock source (not using word clock in this experiment), and you have a cable sending ADAT to the H8000FW, then your H8000FW should have two yellow LEDs lit solid: One LED lit solid for the sample rate (44.1 or 48.0), and the LED marked EXT lit solid, which means all digital inputs involved in the present routing are locked. On the clock page, the other digital inputs appear ?(unlocked)? in parentheses to mean they are unlocked but they are not involved in the routing. Their status appears in parentheses instead of making them disappear from the clock page because disappearing would have added much confusion to the clock page!

      In writing this post, I found a minor bug in my H8000FW (5.2): If I have ADAT arriving constantly at the H8000FW back panel jack while I follow the 3-step procedure I wrote above, then my clock page displays ?ADAT unlocked?, even though the two yellow LEDs are lit solid. I believe this inconsistency is a minor bug in the software feeding the clock page display, not a problem with the audio lock or the yellow status LEDs. In this case, I can add a step: 4) I can turn the H8000FW knob right to select any other clock Source, then I turn the knob back left to Source: ADAT, then the clock page properly reports ?ADAT OK?. Other solutions are to power cycle the H8000FW, or to stop and restart the flow of ADAT to the H8000FW. That might give the factory some clues where the inconsistent state is hiding.

      I learned much writing this post. With the H8000A, I was able to draw a routing worksheet that Eventide has posted on their web site. But after upgrading to H8000FW, the routing/clocking behavior is too complicated for me to capture in a similar worksheet, at least as far as I can imagine. It took me a while to figure out my new approach, but here?s what I do with the H8000FW now: A) I have the H8000FW manual pages that show the factory routings printed out for quick reference close at hand, B) I think about what I want my H8000FW to do, C) I set my routing first, D) I set my clocking second. That works for me.

      Flich, I?m confident the steps I wrote above should work for you.



    • #128424

      Amazing write up Dave.  Thanks so much for taking the time to 1, go through the testing process yourself,  and 2, taking the time to do a write up. I'm looking forward to giving this a run through myself very soon. 

    • #128426

      Great post Dave!
      I must have the Monster Ultra Series THX since
      I had to do some robust filing to get it to fit! I
      filed only one cable… this was sufficient for both
      to fit side by side.

    • #118085

      just incase someone else finds this post…

      at best buy they sell a nice braided cable under the name RocketFish. notably the gold plated version has a little extra step on the end that gives you just enough extra space to get a nice fit over the recessed plate, and the ends arn't so wide as monster or other brands like the premium hosa. no mods and seems to be a well made cable.

    • #118087

       I just ordered a set of the Apogee WE-GP-3.0 ADAT/SMUX Toslink cables. I'll let you know how it goes. Should get them this week. Expensive!



    • #129227


      I use a Creamware SCOPE + ADI8DS converters and recently, an H8000FW as external effect, and I was getting crazy with the same problem (FURIOS "POPCORN" NOISE) but this morning, apparently I've solved it.

      I was connecting H8000FW via ADAT cable, indicating to H8000 to syncronize with SCOPE, as I use SCOPE as MASTER;
      from the H8000FW panel the indication of the syncronization was clearly OK, but it continued to be noisy

      AFTER THOUSANDS OF TESTS (also replacing cables..) I loaded DICE drivers and I have connected the H8000FW to the PC via FW (additionally to the connection via adat to the SCOPE board.
      – I have setted H8000FW as a master and SCOPE as slave, sinchroniziong the SCOPE to the H8000FW via the adat cable an everithing works perfectly (..finally), without the need of an external master clock

      So far what I have understood, the root of the problem, it seemed that the 8000 WANTS to be the master.

      Furthermore from the DICE panel on the PC in the space "MASTER" is impossible disable the 8000FW from the "master configuration"

      It is my experience up to now, I would also appreciate have further indications or point of view from anybody else.

      Emilio Biagini

    • #129246

      "I've found that the cable connection to the H8000 is loose at best. They never seem to lock in very tightly. "

      I just discovered this on my H8000FW. I was just about to call the salesman and get a RA. The ADAT cable couldn't even be considered "loose". It just slides in and out without any lock at all. I'd be afraid to work like that… one slight shift and there goes my speakers and hearing : )

    • #129247

      I'm sure you will get solid mechanical latching with the Hosa/Livewire OPT-100 series cables (Standard).  I described how this works in a previous post in this ADAT cable thread.  Once you try the cables I recommend, I'm sure you'll be successful.

    • #129248


      I'm sure you will get solid mechanical latching with the Hosa/Livewire OPT-100 series cables (Standard).? I described how this works in a previous post in this ADAT cable thread.? Once you try the cables I recommend, I'm sure you'll be successful.

      Thanks. I must have something wrong with my Safari browser. Only 8 messages were showing here until I reordered the newest/oldest. I missed half the conversation, including your initial post.

    • #129249

       You may need to tweak your "More Options" settings, in the Harmonizers folder to have all postings show up.



    • #129299

      Just wanted to drop a heads up that the 100 series has been discontinued by Hosa. I'm trying to find an alternative that works.

    • #129305

      I see the Hosa OPT-100 series in-stock at Sweetwater here ––Optical_Cables

      I also see the OPT-100 series in-stock at B&H Photo Video Pro Audio here –

      Today I also checked, where I downloaded their catalog / retail price list in a 5.1 MB PDF file they dated November 2008. I see the OPT-100 series in that PDF file, too. Cool, I also see the OPT-601 is a package of six 1-foot cables with color-coded ends, and I didn?t know about that.

      Anyway, for any Hosa part number that starts OPT, it will latch with the H8000FW.  I see the OPT-100 series cables are in-stock online, and I see them in the latest catalog Hosa has posted online, too.

    • #132951

      Can anyone please tell me what I am to do now, years after this thread, with the Hosa cables likely discontinued?     My ADAT out sucks and doesn't latch tight with my monster THX optical cable. (and since I got this from best buy, I highly doubt it is meant for professional audio regardless).

      Any other cables out there that latch tight to the H800FW?

    • #132967

      I checked again today (in 2011), and my post above (in 2009) is still good advice. Any Hosa part number that starts OPT-1** will latch tight with the H8000FW (while OPM-3** will not work). So today I checked, where I downloaded their most recent catalog / retail price list (in a 4.6 MB PDF file they dated January 2010), and I still see the OPT-100 series in that PDF file. So from my post above (2009) to my post today (2011), the Hosa catalog dropped the OPT-601, which was a set of six one-foot cables with color-coded ends (my favorite, for style points!!), but Hosa continues to makes the OPT-100 series as their most basic optical cable (and you could still get the OPT-601 from distributors online if you want, for style points).  Long story short:

      The Hosa OPT-100 series is still in-stock at Sweetwater:–Optical_Cables

      The Hosa OPT-100 series is still in-stock at B&H Photo Video:

      Which is all to say, you can continue to expect to find the Hosa OPT-100 series in your area too.  And they latch with the H8000FW.

    • #132992

      ok thanks ill look into it.

    • #134262

      Rocketfish toslink cables found at best buy have a fairly snug fit.  Much better than the HOSA cables from Guitar Center.

    • #134264

      I would not trust this 100 series.  It looks cheap and prone to jitter.  Can somebody please recommend a highest-end cable that will latch to the 8000?   I am not plugging a cable available for 9 dollars into this unit.   I need an ultra quality one that minimizes any jitter – a common issue with lower end optical cables. 

    • #134276

      So far the rocketfish cables fit the best but only if you tape some slack of the cable to the upper back part of your case or rack so that there is no lean in any direction out of the Adat socket – because overnight the cables will come out if leaning downwards.  

      This is turning into a farce.   No cables will latch properly clicked in other than these entry level chinese optical cables I found at some surplus store for 7 bucks.

      Can Eventide please provide a reasonable solution here because this is an important matter for some of us.

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